Elegance, opulence, refinement, ostentation, abundance, and timelessness…are among the flurry of adjectives that define the universe of Luxury. Travelling through eras and languages, the word has found different connotations resting at what we know it today, ‘a state of great comfort or elegance, especially when involving great expense.’ Contrary to popular belief, the birth of luxury happened not in Europe but in Egyptian civilization in Northeast Africa.
Luxury, a symbol of grand living and a grander afterlife (Ancient Egypt 3000 BC)
Luxury in ancient Egypt served as a powerful symbol of both earthly authority and a sacred link to the divine. This remarkable civilization along the Nile River saw luxury as a dual expression, one that showcased worldly opulence while simultaneously serving as a conduit to the afterlife. At the heart of this opulence were the revered pharaohs, the primary beneficiaries and champions of luxury. Their monumental pyramids, often perceived as tombs, were colossal exhibitions of wealth and status.
Hussein Bicar/Wikimedia Commons/Public Domain
Metropolitan Museum of Art Wikimedia Commons Public Domain
The living indulged in extravagance through sumptuous residences, the use of precious metals like gold, exquisite clothing, and the exclusive application of perfumes, a privilege reserved for the Pharaoh, his queen, aristocrats, and the High Priest. The Egyptians held luxury in high regard, a devotion that spurred innovation. It was here, along the banks of the Nile, that they ventured into the realm of glassmaking, crafting luxurious items like intricate beads and jewellery. This dedication to luxury extended into every facet of life, ultimately defining the opulent tapestry of ancient Egyptian civilization.
The ingenious Egyptians made contributions that continue to elevate luxury and prestige in the modern world. One of their remarkable achievements was the invention of glass to safeguard precious luxury items like perfumes. This technological innovation began as an exclusive craft but eventually disseminated throughout society, bestowing its benefits upon people from all walks of life.
Luxury, a concept of constant dispute (Ancient Greece 600 BC)
Photo: Leo Von Klenze/Public domain
While luxury was revered in Egypt, it became a controversial and complex concept after finding its way to Greece. Some forces saw it as an aspirational and improving force in society, to others it was the nemesis of virtue. Athens, renowned as the birthplace of democracy, stood as one of the earliest societies that sought to regulate the presence of luxury goods. Wealthy citizens were encouraged to redirect their riches into communal services and public events, a strategy that yielded moderate success. However, more precise attempts to define the boundaries of luxury, such as dictating the types of food people should purchase, inadvertently stoked social unrest.
A similar notion about luxury started spreading across the globe.
The banishment of luxury (Middle Ages 486 AD)
In the Middle Ages luxury was entwined with a darker facet of society, largely owing to its association with vices and a deviation from the virtuous norms upheld by men and women in the community. Notably, luxury was often deemed sinful by prevailing standards. Christianity saw luxury as a barrier on the way to heaven.
Depiction of life during the Middle Age
In medieval Britain, possessing something costly or not readily accessible was deemed socially inappropriate. During this era, the term ‘luxury’ was adopted from the French word ‘luxure’ signifying ‘lust’. Clothing, in particular, garnered significant scrutiny.
A concept which was once considered sacred and symbolized abundance ended up becoming a symbol of debauchery.
A change in connotation (Renaissance 1450 AD)
It was not until the Renaissance, one of the most flourishing eras of human history, that the concept of luxury started changing, assuming the definition we best know it today.
Banquet Scene in a Renaissance Hall, by Dirck Hals (1628) Academy of Fine Arts Vienna, Wikimedia Commons
Spanning from the 14th to the 17th century, the Renaissance witnessed a profound transformation in the concept of luxury. Fuelled by cultural revival, expanding trade routes, and the rise of humanism, luxury during this era evolved from mere opulence to a celebration of individual expression and refinement. Exotic imports, elaborate clothing, sumptuous cuisine, opulent living spaces, and finely crafted jewellery became symbols of status.
Renaissance patrons supported the arts, resulting in luxurious creations, while exclusivity and rarity added prestige to unique and limited-edition items. The Renaissance redefined luxury, emphasizing art, culture, and personal refinement as integral aspects of opulence.
Although the celebration of art led to a change in the perception of luxury, it started becoming a bone of contention between the Haves and the Have Nots. The monarchs and aristocrats had access to hedonistic pleasures and exquisite goods, while other parts of society lived in abject poverty. Hence, luxury became a sociological issue, intrinsically connected to a sense of inequality.
This societal divide persists even today, where luxury can be perceived as affronting to the less privileged, yet, paradoxically, the luxury industry also serves as a source of respected employment opportunities for skilled artisans, safeguarding crafts that might otherwise have faced the risk of extinction.
Luxury for all (Industrial Revolution)
Inside a Hermes store in the 1950s. Photo: Back Gate Studios/pinterest
The Industrial Revolution deserves the lion's share of credit for the growth and expansion of the universe of luxury. Extravagant indulgences found their way across borders and continents with increasing ease, gradually trickling down to various social strata. The concept of luxury, as we recognize it today, began to take shape during the 1920s, famously known as the Roaring Twenties. This transformative era was marked by the luxury industry’s synergy with technological advancements like assembly lines and mass production. Previously exorbitant items, such as automobiles, became considerably more affordable to manufacture on a larger scale, making them accessible to a broader demographic.
Liberalism introduced an economic justification for luxury as a catalyst for widespread prosperity. In the past, luxury had been the exclusive domain of a select elite. However, the gradual process of democratization, rendered luxury more attainable to a broader demographic. The Industrial Revolution significantly elevated living standards, enabling an increasing number of individuals to get involved in the enjoyment of luxurious goods and experiences.
Old Luxury (Era of the birth of most luxury brands)
Artisanal craftsmanship by the Parisian leather goods house ‘Moynat’. Photo and caption by Philippe Mihailovich.
The democratization of luxury and the rising demand for opulent goods marked a pronounced trend throughout the 20th century. However, the landscape shifted during World War II, as economic constraints and limited access curtailed people’s ability to indulge in their desires. In response to these challenges, brands adapted by shifting their focus towards smaller, more accessible items like shoes, handbags, perfumes, and scarves, giving rise to the luxury industry as we know it today, which is the climax of the timeline of a lot of events.
New Luxury (Luxury as we know it today)
In the evolving landscape of a rapidly developing world and the acceleration of digitalization, the definition of luxury fashion is undergoing a profound transformation. Once the exclusive domain of the elite and high society, a new era of luxury is emerging, one that is increasingly within reach for the everyday consumer.
Photo: blog.crobox.com
Today’s luxury consumers are in pursuit of deeper emotional gratification through their purchases. They crave authenticity, ethical sourcing, exclusivity, and personalized experiences. Furthermore, sustainability has taken centre stage, with an ever-growing eco-consciousness among consumers.
While the connotation of luxury may have evolved, one fundamental aspect has remained unwavering — the enduring human desire for it, a timeless aspiration that persisted in the past, in the present and will continue.
Some of the oldest luxury items:
Jewelry: Jewelry made from various precious materials, such as gold, silver, gemstones, and pearls, has been considered a symbol of wealth and luxury for millennia. Ancient civilizations like the Egyptians, Greeks, and Romans adorned themselves with elaborate jewellery.
Perfumes: Perfumes and fragrances have been associated with luxury and status since ancient times. The ancient Egyptians, for instance, created complex scents from natural ingredients like flowers, spices, and resins.
Silk: Silk fabric, known for its softness and sheen, has been highly coveted for centuries. Originating in China, silk was a luxury item that was traded along the Silk Road and became popular among the elite in various cultures.
Spices: Exotic spices like cinnamon, saffron, and black pepper were highly valued in ancient times and were considered luxury items. They were used for flavouring food and their medicinal properties.
Textiles: Luxurious textiles like fine wool, linen, and cotton have been used to create opulent clothing and furnishings for the elite throughout history.
Precious Metals: Gold, silver, and other precious metals have been used to create luxury items such as ornate dinnerware, decorative objects, and coinage.
Porcelain and China: Fine porcelain and China, known for its delicate and intricate designs, have been associated with luxury, especially during the Ming and Qing dynasties in China.
Ivory and Exotic Woods: Carvings and sculptures made from ivory and rare woods have been considered luxury items due to the craftsmanship and materials involved.
Fine Art: Throughout history, fine art, including paintings, sculptures, and other artistic creations, has been a symbol of wealth and prestige.
Ancient Cosmetics: Ancient cosmetics and skincare products made from rare ingredients were considered luxury items. For example, Cleopatra was known for her use of exotic ingredients in her beauty routines.
Ostrich Eggs and feathers: In ancient Egypt, ostrich eggs and feathers held a prestigious status as luxury commodities. The pursuit of these giant birds through hunting became a regal pastime, intended to showcase the pharaoh’s authority and might.
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