(Part I of Tungnath-Chandrashila-Deoriatal Trek)
When you see the golden rays of the unripe sun kiss the peaks of the Uttarakhand Himalayas on your left and the tired moon gradually waning away into the Chopta valley on your right, calling it a day, you realize you’ve just witnessed a phenomenon. And suddenly the sleep-deprived back-breaking road trip of more than 13 hours from Delhi to Chopta makes as much sense as the ‘Stairway to Heaven’ did.
How fortune smiled on me
Breakups were trending on social media and I knew mine with my job was on the cards too. It did happen. The only thing I wanted to do after calling it a quit with my five-year-long journalism career and a troubled association with my last job was to break free from the ennui of my tiny little life and bask in the beauty of the Himalayas. In a flash I decided to go to Chopta and texted a travel buddy (let’s name him Anonymous) to check upon his availability. Although his summer trip was planned to Kasol; with a little cajoling it was effortlessly replaced by Chopta. Following his usual drill of planning an itinerary we decided to meet in Delhi and drive down to our destination.
My extra-concerned roommate would by no means let me go unarmed alone with a man. Thus, failing to find a pepper spray in the local markets, I was loaded with a two inch nail clipper to protect myself from a 5 feet 11 inch man of an appropriately strong frame, just in case my modesty was at stake.
The journey
The journey that started at the stroke of midnight promised a lot in hold. It is remarkable how even at such unearthly hours you can get stuck in an unforgiving traffic jam in the national capital. It took us more than an hour and a half to manoeuvre through the nostalgic (because I was in Delhi for most part of 2015) Akbar Road, India Gate, Mathura Road to drive effortlessly to NH 58, the highway that connects Ghaziabad to Badrinath.
When you travel you tend to understand the difference between reality and expectation like a pro. Until that day a road trip always sounded interesting. However, the endless diversions and bumpy road right after crossing Meerut made it a rather difficult ride until Roorkee. The only saving grace to keep oneself distracted were the Dhaba lit brightly in different colours, which looked like fairy lights adorning the busy streets.
Utility Fact- If you quite aren’t the Dhaba kind make sure to fill your tummy at the Haldirams near Meerut, because that could be your only decent place to satiate your midnight hunger pang.
While the wee hours passed mercifully dealing with the bad road, the heavy eyelids towards the dawn started making me sick in the stomach. Had it not been for splashing the chilled water of the Ganges on my face to break the drowse, or witnessing the incredible early morning aarti at Har Ki Pauri in Haridwar, the second leg of the journey would have been even more trying. The designated parking lot right outside Har Ki Pauri makes dropping for a quick aarti rather easy.
The sunrise amidst chilled early morning breeze at Tapovan (Rishikesh) was the first brush with the Paradise we were about to experience in the next two days. Passing by Shivpuri and Byasi we watched adventure enthusiasts waiting patiently for their turn in river rafting. Both these places are like the manufacturing unit for the umpteen rafting photographs you see on Facebook.
Utility fact- Make sure you get your wallets loaded with cash at Rishikesh, for the next ATM you can withdraw cash from comes at Srinagar, a town around 115kms away. The ones Devprayag offer is usually out of service. We tried our fate and failing to avail cash ended up drinking refreshing lemonade at the humble bus stop at Devprayag, which acted quite as elixir.
The best part of the journey throughout NH 109 (Rishikesh to Chopta) was to be followed by the clear turquoise-blue Ganges all along till it met the Bhagirathi at Rudraprayag. Though dead tired, the scintillating view of the Ganges below, the thrill of the sharp blind turns at the countless mountains that looked handcrafted and roads embellished with blue jacaranda kept me on the edge of the seat. The highly active Bollywood radar made me imagine ourselves as runaway characters from an Imtiaz Ali movie; something on the lines of Yara Rab Rus Jaane De from Socha Na Tha or Yeh Ishq Hai from Jab We Met.
The ‘not-final’ Destination
The 30km road from Ukhimath to Chopta was the pièce de résistance of the entire journey. With just dense forest on either side, it was only the meditative silence that spoke to us. Finally, after close to 13 hours of drive came Chopta. Often called the ‘Switzerland of India’, Chopta stood true to its name. Vast expanse of verdant meadows against the backdrop of the Himalayas, sheep grazing on the pastures and colourful tents in different variety and sizes peppered all around- the place had a divine aura. The white of the Himalayas looked like a Halo ornamenting the green paddock of Chopta.
And the view it offered
I love this without any reason in particular
With a limited number of tent and hotels, Chopta offers a decent accommodation. After a small bargain with Bhandari Ji, whose inn stands close to the base of the Tungnath trek, we managed modest rooms with three beds and an attach bathroom for Rs 500. The place was built at the edge of a hill and thus promised an awe-inspiring view. Although it was a little disappointing to hear that we would not be able to witness snow during the trek to Tungnath, the sudden rain made up for a clear weather and promised a wonderful view the next day. During a stroll in the evening we also observed a miracle unfold. As the evening faded into the night, we saw a soufflé of milky white clouds rise up the valley and envelope it in a mystical mist. However, owing to the biting cold, the frigorific wind and plan to start trekking for Tungnath early next day, we couldn’t enjoy the spectacle for long and were forced into our rooms after a bland dinner of jeera rice and egg curry at the restaurant above the inn.
Marching towards the highest Shiva temple
Against the pre-decided 3am, our trek towards Tungnath started at 4:30. Even with the lack of an expert guidance we managed to adroitly find our way amidst darkness towards the temple. The trek from Chopta to Tungnath is only 3.5kms long. However, when you have stopped exercising for almost a month, even a small climb can betray the condition of your sagging lungs. Thus, the initial bit turned out grueling, where I had to often grasp for breath. The best part of the route that is neatly done with stones is the view it offers.
Bed of flowers
As you climb higher, you feel getting close to the Himalayas by inches on one side and the rare variety of blue rhododendrons on the other. If you are lucky enough, you could also spot a pheasant monal (state bird of Uttarakhand) the one that greeted us right outside the Tungnath temple. Every time we crossed a tiny shop, the aroma of burnt coal wafting from them filled me with fond memories of the wonderful Sandakphu days (refer– https://www.tripoto.com/trip/chronicles-of-a-coveted-trek-sandakphu-gurdum-5582).
Towards the beginning of the trek we also came across a tiny abandoned house made of stones, parked amidst a thicket of rhododendron trees that bore flowers in hot pink and carolina blue. Overlooking the Himalayas and covered with colourful flora, it was the dream house any nature lover would pine for. Anyone who undertakes this trek in the spring will understand how Valley of Flowers is but too overhyped and it is in places like this that you can not only feel but actually ‘touch’ nature.
My dream house
It took us almost two and half hours of uphill climb to reach the highest Siva temple in the world. Standing at 3300 metres above the sea level, Tungnath is one among the Panch Kedars; the rest being Kedarnath, Rudranath, Kalpeshwar and Madhmaheshwar. Interestingly, the temple remains closed for 6 months a year and opens towards the second week of May, around the same time as Amarnath. For adventure enthusiasts and nature lovers who wish to witness the sunrise from Chandrashila (touted as a life-changing experience), Tungnath also offers decent stay in single-room cottages.
The highest Shiva temple in the world
It remains open only for 6 months
The place also has a Bhairon Temple
Utility Fact- For the lost-in-love honeymooners, who plan to undertake a steep trek in miniskirts and heeled boots, thankfully the place also offers horse ride.
FACT- According to mythology, after the conclusion of the war of Kurukshetra, when the Pandavas visited Lord Shiva, the latter was reluctant to meet them. Citing reasons of their killing their cousins in the war unjust, Lord Shiva decided against showing up to the brothers and absconded to different caves. Similar to the Shakti Peeth story, it is believed five temples (Tungnath, Rudranath, Kedarnath, Kalpeshwar and Madmaheshwar) sprang out from different body parts of Shiva when he moved out of the hideouts. Tungnath was formed from the Lord’s shoulders.
What it looks like from Tungnath
Why Chandrashila is one of the best things that ever happened to me!
Chandrashila was the summit of this trek. Call it sheer fortune, even with least chances of spotting it, we found the whole route from Tungnath to Chandrashila covered with sheet of white snow. Thanks to the rainfall from the previous evening. The trek, although only 2 kms long, is rather a difficult one, considering the steep ascend. The road leading to Chandrashila also has a diversion, with one going towards Gopeshwar. The snow covered stones made it an even more difficult climb with Mr Anonymous losing his grip more than twice. The entire route from Tungnath to Chandrshila is blanketed with teeny little yellow and blue flowers, making it for a picturesque and dreamy climb all through.
Chandrashila, the peak
Fact check- Mythology has it that after defeating Ravana, Lord Ram visited the temple at Chandrashila and started meditating for Moksh Prapti (achieving Nirvana).
The temple atop Chandrashila where Lord Ram offered his prayer
Is it possible to attain absolute happiness? I questioned myself upon reaching the top and ringing the bell at the temple atop one of the highest peaks of Uttarakhand. If it is, I was then the happiest I could ever be. I was standing at 4229metres (approx 14000ft) above the sea level, closest to the majestic Himalayas and overlooking Nanda Devi, one of the tallest mountains in the world. For reasons best known to my brain or perhaps my heart, it made my eyes moist. Sitting on a rock, soaking the early morning sun, admiring Nanda Devi and the 360 degree panoramic view of the Himalayan peaks of Trishul, Kedar, Bandarpunch, Chaukhamba et al, I realized what a bane a life spent on worrying only about its strife was. The epiphany said every mortal being has a greater purpose and perhaps I realized mine at that moment.
This is how magic happens
Bits and pieces of a dialogue from Woody Allen’s Midnight in Paris started ringing in my mind. It says, All men fear death. It’s a natural fear that consumes us all. We fear death because we feel that we haven’t loved well enough or loved at all, which ultimately are one and the same. However, when you make love with a truly great woman, one that deserves the utmost respect in this world and one that makes you feel truly powerful, that fear of death completely disappears. Because when you are sharing your body and heart with a great woman the world fades away. You two are the only ones in the entire universe. Death no longer lingers in the mind. Fear no longer clouds your heart. Only passion, for living, and for loving become your sole reality. This is no easy task for it takes insurmountable courage. But remember this, for that moment when you are making love with a woman of true greatness you will feel immortal.”
And at that one moment, my unconditional love for the Himalayas made me feel immortal, for then and forever…
Comments